Our goal is to have good clean fast and inexpensive fun racing. Your Box Stock car will run well. You don't need to change anything on it and you will have a blast in the club. Just add batteries and transponder. However we have found a few inexpensive parts that once upgraded increase consistency, speed, competition, and our overall fun. We'll leave more modifications for mod classes and discussions at the club. The following items have worked well at keeping the cars similar, while also creating a very fun head to head racing environment.
We have three classes in PDX Mini Z, stock, modified, and open. All racers should have a stock car because there is often not enough mod racers to race. This guide is going to help you setup a stock car so you can come race with us.
If you have any questions please reach out to us!
There are a lot of different options. F1, Lemans, Muscle, Sport. Those are all great, but we have chosen and race together the MR-03 Sport cars. These are Ready To Run cars, just add batteries, and they are fast and fun.
Motor choice: These "Ready Set" cars utilize a brushed motor and are quick enough for our races. Don't choose a brushless model. These take you out of our local and national classes we all run. But they can be discussed later for MOD cars options. All cars are inspected prior to races.
Differential: Most of these are stock gear diff. Mod class drivers get to choose between gear and ball differentials, stock class must leave what comes in the car.
Motor Location: We suggest you choose a car with the MM (mid motor) Motor Mount type, with 98 or 102mm wheelbase / bodies. There are cool looking RM (rear mount) cars with 86, 90, and 94mm wheelbases, but these do not perform as well for our interests. Since Kyosho does not show which motor mount a car comes with, you can use www.mini-z-guide.com to find out which bodies have which mount.
Tires and wheels: Each body has it's own specific offsets. They are +0,1,2,3. The tires are narrow for the fronts and wide for the rear. If you use the stock offset for the body you choose, you shouldn't have to grind away any of the body for clearance but sometimes you do. The LM cars have a different tire and rim combination than the racer style. Make sure the tires don't scrub the fenders. Minimal grinding of splitters is acceptable as they can get caught under the rail on the RCP track.
Mini-z cars run on 4 AAA batteries. This can be surprising but trust us they are plenty fast. Racers use about 4 packs or 16 batteries during a race night. The general rule with other clubs in the "sport" class is 900mah NiMH rechargeable batteries. No Lipo's are allowed in 50/50, spec, or HFAY classes. There really isn't a need for mod either as they are so fast with nimh's. Acceptable nimh's up to 1200 mah. In a pinch you may use non rechargeable batteries such as Energizer or Duracell batteries, however, the cost of doing so is extremely high.
An analyzer is not necessary, however, it can be useful discovering bad batteries and batteries with the best performance.
We use a lap timing system from I-LapRC to time our races. With a transponder we can track your position in a race. Only I-LapRC transponders are compatible so you must buy one from the source.
Getting a car purchased, basic setup options, a couple sets of batteries, charger, and transponder will run $250-$350 and you are ready to race. If you still have questions, post them on facebook or the forums and we'll figure it out. Or just show up with all your stuff and we'll get you in the right direction. To race, all you have to do is show up to an event.
These are the most common and successful parts that work for almost every sports 2 car.